Mainstay in the Mekong Delta ~ Culture and Capitalism

The Mekong Delta is well known for the narrow canals that connect the interior of the islands. The opportunity to ride in a row boat is ample for tourists as it seems a main income generating activity for the local people. I enjoyed my short trip through the mangroves; a weathered Vietnamese river woman perched in the typical squat at the helm, navigating through the bustle of thin boats and low hanging branches. Although cultural, and even somewhat picturesque, I was a bit discouraged by the nature of my time in the canals. My expectations may have been too much as I hoped for less white people, and more market activity. Yet, without the tourist access, I would not likely have gotten there in the first place. So I tapped into the storyteller in me and imagined riding in that boat fifty years ago. Before the war. Before the tourism. Before capitalism bullied the tributaries in the Mekong Delta into over pollution for the sake of money.

I visited two islands in the delta. The first was "Unicorn Island" as it is known by the locals, in the My Tho province. In addition to tourism of course, most of the people here make a living on bee farms. In fact, alongside honey, the famous anti-aging royal jelly is a main export as well as a delicious booze made from honey that reminds me a bit of nigori.

The second island I visited was "Coconut Island" in the Ben Tre province. Although suffering from the same type of exploitation as other parts of the delta, Coconut Island made me feel a bit different. Perhaps because it was located deeper in the delta or because of the company I met on the ride there, I enjoyed myself on Coconut Island very much.

Along the same vein: Coconut Island exports all things coconut. I stepped onto the island and immediately had a piece of the most wonderfully delectable coconut candy in my mouth. I was blessed to see the process of hand making this particular brand of candy. The family who produces it was quick to inform the tourists that it was only they who made it and anything that seemed similar was a forfeit. Regardless, it is simply the most delicious candy I have ever eaten.

I tend to mark my travels by the food I eat and the people I encounter. The Mekong Delta was no exception. I was so fortunate to meet a brother and sister duo on my way to the Delta; Phillip and Christy Pierce. They are from Boulder, CO (No Kidding!) and we shared a series of excellent conversations. Phillip (pictured here shopping for Burning Man goggles during a bike ride) has just graduated with a Master's in Social Work and we share very similar socio-political views and goals for personal growth. Also interesting and timely, Christy attends CSU in Fort Collins and we share a love for live music, specifically a local band called Euforquestra! Sometimes there is no denying you are on the right path.

Together, the three of us munched on fruit, listened to local music and discussed a myriad of topics. Phillip has some interesting things to say about self realization, anarchism, political participation and even feminism. Christy has a stunning yet unassuming presence and I enjoyed listening to her talk about her time in Thailand, where she has just finished volunteering as a pre-school teacher. It looks as though Christy and I will meet up at the Fox Theatre for a Euforquestra show in July. I will be thrilled to see her again!